Clutch... Finally!

In the last post the clutch was assembled.  However, there was a problem.  When the starter pulley was tightened onto the crankshaft, the whole assembly would move as one.  Not a good thing!

Here is a quick description of this clutch. This photo helps:

The finned object is the engine. The brown ring is the clutch drum, which the chain sprocket attached to it.  Inside the drum are the clutch shoes.  In the very middle the tip of the crankshaft (which is how the power is transferred from the engine.)

When the engine is running at an idle or low revs, the shoes rotate with the crank, but don't catch on to the wall of the drum.   At high revs, centrifugal force throws throws the shoes out with such pressure that they "catch" the drum wall, thus turning it and the wheels.

If the two move as one, when the engine is running... the wheels would turn.

SO....  The MUST NOT MOVE AS ONE!!

Since Randy was down for the day to help with projects, we worked together, hoping to start the engine.  

I would tighten the pulley, but it would bind up.  We compared the clutch parts illustration with the actually parts. 

So we tore it down.  There were a couple washers and a retaining nut missing.  We would think about it... Talk about.   Put it back together.  Tear it back down.  Look at it. Talk about it.  Just a bit frustrating.  It just seemed to bind up.

Finally, we decided to put a put washers in to replace the missing ones.  By looking in Dad's cache of washers, we found a couple good sized washers to be a spacer. We decided to put a spacer on the crankshaft to move the pulley away from the cover.  The spacer used looked like this locking washer, only a regular washer.    

 Then we went to town to look for steel and bronze washers per the parts list.

Here are the copper washers purchased.

I also bought a gas can for kart use.  But will probably take it back.... didn't realize it was $18.00!!

We came back and put it all back together.... still no joy.   Randy looked at the bearings on either side and found the needle bearings were not turning and also no grease.  It took a while a bit of Blaster and compressed air, but finally the bearing started moving.  Then the both bearings were packed with grease.  Put the clutch back together.  Still binding!!!   UGHHHHHHHHHHH!

As always happens, we had to leave it undone to go to dinner.  Dinner was awesome!  BBQ ribs at Squealers in Mooresville, IN.   Steve and Becky came down to eat with us.  It was very good dinner.

Randy had a battery problem so I ran him to town so he could go home.  The bearings had the evening to get greasy, so I tried one more time before heading home.

I put the spacer on the crankshaft then put on the pulley.   BINGO!!  the pulley tightened up, but did not bind up to the clutch !!!  They move separate!

Next up... a good tech/safety inspection, then start it up!

UPDATED TO-DO LIST

To-Do List

Brake safety tether (KISS)  3' 1/8" CABLE  / 2 CABLE CLAMPS /A LOC-TITE

3-5GAL GAS CAN

CONTACT HOOSIER TIRE FOR RECOMMENDATIONS

ADD FUEL FILTER TO FUEL LINE

Replace pin with bolt with locking nut/cotter pin

Buy gasoline (which grade?)  sunoco or shell premium (called Hi-test in past)

Mix gasoline and oil  (20:1 or 16:1) (10-12oz Burris castor:1gal gas)  Shell & Stihl oil (add stabilizer for end of day flush)

Clutch oil --  old Hartman oil should work

Review first start procedure ( 1-2oz. fuel mix in carb and .5-1oz through plug hole to cylinder):  idle for 10 minutes until warmed up on horses/stand; repeat 3 times; re-torque head bolts)

Remove engine swing mount to fix rubber gasket

Place fixed swing mount

Place locking collar on Swing mount on axle (use punch to tighten then set screw)

Place engine on swing mount

Tighten engine mounting bolts to torque limit (loc-tite)  CHECK

Attach clutch to PTO side (half-moon key, clutch housing and ring, shoes, gasket, cover, tighten pulley         bolt, hex bolts with loc-tite, fill with oil) MORE WEIGHT= LESS SLIP

Align sprocket/oiler to drive sprocket (oiler not allowed.  put lube on sprocket)

Fill oiler at track(~70weight gear oil)(holds enough for one hour of racing)

Connect throttle cable to carb; attach to frame with zip-ties

Connect brake tubing to frame with zip-ties

Put on pipe (torque wrench)

Battery to starter and test (Check correct direction!!)

New belt?

Put on fuel line ( need a loop? PROBABLY)

Add gas/oil mix

Open the fuel valve

Set carb needles per manual before start

After start, set carb needles per manual

Buy new tires (Dunlop SL4) and tubes

SAND BLAST WHEELS???

Balance tires

Put on tires SWITCH FRONT TIMES SO COTTER PINS CAN WORK

Balance frame with a scale under each tire (what then?  tire pressure?   frame?)

Put temp gauge on spark plug (gauge is in helmet bag.  where is the plug end?)

Buy strong rod bolts (Bonbright)

Set clutch at high rpm

Inventory all kart parts and tools

New boxes for parts

catalog what tools are needed

table for pits

tent for pits (UMMM... BREAKING DESTRY TENT DID THAT)

Start wiki of info

EAR PLUGS



and much much more