Perfect timing!

The last post described Randy and I struggling with the clutch.  Finally, at the last moment it was fixed. 

Ann gave me a small sack with more of Dad's karting items.  Here are some pix of those items: 

Dad's stop watch.  I can't think of many items that go back as far in my memories.  

This was gift to Dad a few years ago.  It is about 4" long and comes with a "air gun" for changing out parts and tires. 

This is the envelope with all the items below.

Receipt for a carb and clutch shoes -- this carb goes for $10-$15 today on ebay

 These items apparently came with a clutch shoes that was sent from Chicago.

Page of owners manual 

Parts illustration with more detail than the one I already have.
This confirmed that there needs to be a spacer placed on the crank.  It is part 1012, top center 

Parts list and PRICING on back of parts illustration.  

Installation instructions with lots of good info.

 This is a hand-written note from "someone" a the shop where the carb and clutch shoes came from.  There are eleven pages, all with wonderful and needed instructions.  I have not shown the letterhead for a particular reasons.

Just a sample page with instructions on how to mix alcohol fuel. 

Point-by-point instructions for installing clutch.  I started laughing when I saw this.  Really could have used this on the last two work days!  But it does confirm what we figured out.

These items were in another envelope from G.E.M. Products.  They are still around.

Kart tie-tack

Clutch... Finally!

In the last post the clutch was assembled.  However, there was a problem.  When the starter pulley was tightened onto the crankshaft, the whole assembly would move as one.  Not a good thing!

Here is a quick description of this clutch. This photo helps:

The finned object is the engine. The brown ring is the clutch drum, which the chain sprocket attached to it.  Inside the drum are the clutch shoes.  In the very middle the tip of the crankshaft (which is how the power is transferred from the engine.)

When the engine is running at an idle or low revs, the shoes rotate with the crank, but don't catch on to the wall of the drum.   At high revs, centrifugal force throws throws the shoes out with such pressure that they "catch" the drum wall, thus turning it and the wheels.

If the two move as one, when the engine is running... the wheels would turn.

SO....  The MUST NOT MOVE AS ONE!!

Since Randy was down for the day to help with projects, we worked together, hoping to start the engine.  

I would tighten the pulley, but it would bind up.  We compared the clutch parts illustration with the actually parts. 

So we tore it down.  There were a couple washers and a retaining nut missing.  We would think about it... Talk about.   Put it back together.  Tear it back down.  Look at it. Talk about it.  Just a bit frustrating.  It just seemed to bind up.

Finally, we decided to put a put washers in to replace the missing ones.  By looking in Dad's cache of washers, we found a couple good sized washers to be a spacer. We decided to put a spacer on the crankshaft to move the pulley away from the cover.  The spacer used looked like this locking washer, only a regular washer.    

 Then we went to town to look for steel and bronze washers per the parts list.

Here are the copper washers purchased.

I also bought a gas can for kart use.  But will probably take it back.... didn't realize it was $18.00!!

We came back and put it all back together.... still no joy.   Randy looked at the bearings on either side and found the needle bearings were not turning and also no grease.  It took a while a bit of Blaster and compressed air, but finally the bearing started moving.  Then the both bearings were packed with grease.  Put the clutch back together.  Still binding!!!   UGHHHHHHHHHHH!

As always happens, we had to leave it undone to go to dinner.  Dinner was awesome!  BBQ ribs at Squealers in Mooresville, IN.   Steve and Becky came down to eat with us.  It was very good dinner.

Randy had a battery problem so I ran him to town so he could go home.  The bearings had the evening to get greasy, so I tried one more time before heading home.

I put the spacer on the crankshaft then put on the pulley.   BINGO!!  the pulley tightened up, but did not bind up to the clutch !!!  They move separate!

Next up... a good tech/safety inspection, then start it up!

UPDATED TO-DO LIST

To-Do List

Brake safety tether (KISS)  3' 1/8" CABLE  / 2 CABLE CLAMPS /A LOC-TITE

3-5GAL GAS CAN

CONTACT HOOSIER TIRE FOR RECOMMENDATIONS

ADD FUEL FILTER TO FUEL LINE

Replace pin with bolt with locking nut/cotter pin

Buy gasoline (which grade?)  sunoco or shell premium (called Hi-test in past)

Mix gasoline and oil  (20:1 or 16:1) (10-12oz Burris castor:1gal gas)  Shell & Stihl oil (add stabilizer for end of day flush)

Clutch oil --  old Hartman oil should work

Review first start procedure ( 1-2oz. fuel mix in carb and .5-1oz through plug hole to cylinder):  idle for 10 minutes until warmed up on horses/stand; repeat 3 times; re-torque head bolts)

Remove engine swing mount to fix rubber gasket

Place fixed swing mount

Place locking collar on Swing mount on axle (use punch to tighten then set screw)

Place engine on swing mount

Tighten engine mounting bolts to torque limit (loc-tite)  CHECK

Attach clutch to PTO side (half-moon key, clutch housing and ring, shoes, gasket, cover, tighten pulley         bolt, hex bolts with loc-tite, fill with oil) MORE WEIGHT= LESS SLIP

Align sprocket/oiler to drive sprocket (oiler not allowed.  put lube on sprocket)

Fill oiler at track(~70weight gear oil)(holds enough for one hour of racing)

Connect throttle cable to carb; attach to frame with zip-ties

Connect brake tubing to frame with zip-ties

Put on pipe (torque wrench)

Battery to starter and test (Check correct direction!!)

New belt?

Put on fuel line ( need a loop? PROBABLY)

Add gas/oil mix

Open the fuel valve

Set carb needles per manual before start

After start, set carb needles per manual

Buy new tires (Dunlop SL4) and tubes

SAND BLAST WHEELS???

Balance tires

Put on tires SWITCH FRONT TIMES SO COTTER PINS CAN WORK

Balance frame with a scale under each tire (what then?  tire pressure?   frame?)

Put temp gauge on spark plug (gauge is in helmet bag.  where is the plug end?)

Buy strong rod bolts (Bonbright)

Set clutch at high rpm

Inventory all kart parts and tools

New boxes for parts

catalog what tools are needed

table for pits

tent for pits (UMMM... BREAKING DESTRY TENT DID THAT)

Start wiki of info

EAR PLUGS



and much much more

Final Push...

Over the last couple months my step-mother, Ann, has distributed some of Dad's things.  I have received several karting oriented pieces, some which I have already displayed in an earlier post.  Recently, she gave me more Indy Kart Club shirts and assorted other things.

Here I am wearing Dad's IKC shirt from the early '70s. The fun thing about these is they are really bowling shirts! They even have a bowling pin logo on the front pocket.  Dad's name is embroidered on the front and the club name on the back.  I reckon it was a low-cost way to personalize the shirts.  

The shirts arrived just in time for me to wear one to a sock-hop.  That's Pam and I in our costumes.  Several people told me the shirt was perfect.

Now that we know the shirts fit, they can be used by a pit crew!

It's been a while since my last kart-work-day.  I had my to-do list and tried to work my way down it.

I started with the final collars holding the swing mount in place on the rear axle.  Then on to aligning the sprockets....which means putting on the clutch.

I pulled the chain out of the motor oil which it has been for a rear.  Here's the oil draining off.

Oilers are now illegal so it becomes a sprocket holder.

I had to remember how chains go back together.

OK... it actually means the ASSEMBLY of the clutch.  The clutch fits on the protruding camshaft.

Here is the clutch drum in place with the half-moon key in the camshaft. 

Here is the a detail view of the clutch housing in place with the half-moon key in the camshaft. 

 Then the gut go in.. the hub and shoes. Next is the clutch cover which is held on with the ring that is behind the drum...  Oh.. it is not there.  So I get to practice taking the drum off.

 OK, that's better... with ring in place.

 Here is the whole clutch: (l to r) ring, drum, cover plate, pulley

 Here it is dry fitted together before tightening the hex bolts.

Crud!!  The ring must be oriented correctly.  50/50 chance and I picked wrong.  The fully flat side needed to be in-board, like this.  So I get to practice taking the apart... again.

  NOT like this.

  Finally, here is the clutch with the cover on.  Notice it is an open cover.

 With the starter pulley

Next would be aligning the sprockets, then tightening the engine mount...tightly!!!

Always remember to use a good safety pin on the chain.

 Allow about 1/2" slack in the chain.

With that done, I took a look at the fuel line.  I cut it to length with little extra.  I'm not sure if there is a need of  a loop (probably... with the decisions I have made).  There is enough fuel line left over.

Here is the fuel turn-off on the tank.  I put some gasoline in but no flow, so I took it apart and used a wooden swab on it.  Yep, a bunch of crud and old, dry fuel.  I let the gas run out to clean it up more.

 The last piece on the engine was the exhaust. It has been in one piece but to put back on, I had to take it apart.

I could not get an allen wrench to on of the manifold hex bolts, so had to grind down another allen wrench to fit.  That's about 3-4 allens I have modified.  I just can't remember how Dad and I took it off.

 The advise Greg Wright gave was to have the kart all together to start it the first time.  Never start it on the bench.. it needs to "pull" against something or it could accelerate and go BOOOOMMM! That means TIRES!  The old inner-tubes have held air for two months.  They started with 20lbs and only dropped to 12-15lbs.

Here is the front tire with safety wire instead of a cotter pin.  But they had cotter pins!  I looked at the photos from before the rebuild and found that I put the tires on wrong.  I thought the tube stem would go on the outside.  NO! the stems go inside.. notice the recessed area around the nut.

 But the rear tires went on just fine. Orientation on those is easy.

So here it is. OHHH so close to being done.

 Here is my new to-do list:

To-Do List

Brake safety tether (KISS)  3' 1/8" CABLE  / 2 CABLE CLAMPS /A LOC-TITE

3GAL GAS CAN

CONTACT HOOSIER TIRE FOR RECOMMENDATIONS

Replace pin with bolt with locking nut/cotter pin

Buy gasoline (which grade?)  sunoco or shell premium (called Hi-test in past)

Mix gasoline and oil  (20:1 or 16:1) (10-12oz Burris castor:1gal gas)  Shell & Stihl oil (add stabilizer for end of day flush)

Clutch oil --  old Hartman oil should work

Review first start procedure ( 1-2oz. fuel mix in carb and .5-1oz through plug hole to cylinder):  idle for 10 minutes until warmed up on horses/stand; repeat 3 times; re-torque head bolts)

Remove engine swing mount to fix rubber gasket

Place fixed swing mount

Place locking collar on Swing mount on axle (use punch to tighten then set screw)

Place engine on swing mount

Tighten engine mounting bolts to torque limit (loc-tite)  CHECK

Attach clutch to PTO side (half-moon key, clutch housing and ring, shoes, gasket, cover, tighten pulley         bolt, hex bolts with loc-tite, fill with oil) MORE WEIGHT= LESS SLIP

Align sprocket/oiler to drive sprocket (oiler not allowed.  put lube on sprocket)

Fill oiler at track(~70weight gear oil)(holds enough for one hour of racing)

Connect throttle cable to carb; attach to frame with zip-ties

Connect brake tubing to frame with zip-ties

Put on pipe (torque wrench)

Battery to starter and test (Check correct direction!!)

New belt?

Put on fuel line ( need a loop? PROBABLY)

Add gas/oil mix

Open the fuel valve

Set carb needles per manual before start

After start, set carb needles per manual

Buy new tires (Dunlop SL4) and tubes

SAND BLAST WHEELS???

Balance tires

Put on tires SWITCH FRONT TIMES SO COTTER PINS CAN WORK

Balance frame with a scale under each tire (what then?  tire pressure?   frame?)

Put temp gauge on spark plug (gauge is in helmet bag.  where is the plug end?)

Buy strong rod bolts (Bonbright)

Set clutch at high rpm

Inventory all kart parts and tools

New boxes for parts

catalog what tools are needed

table for pits

tent for pits (UMMM... BREAKING DESTRY TENT DID THAT)

Start wiki of info

EAR PLUGS



and much much more

Here is the IKF book Dad still had.  Inside were these items: 

His 1972-3 enduro licenses.  Each race was dated and signed by an official. Most here are by Homer Adams... I think the registration ladies actually signed most. :-)

Here is an advertisement for the McCulloch engines that were the leading engines of the time.  Within about 5 years Yamaha was more and more popular.

And the IKF sticker and patch.  IKF is now solely west of the Mississippi, and the WKA sanctions east of the Mississippi.